In November 2020, the Mexican Ministry of Culture filed complaints against French designer Isabel Marant for selling clothes decorated with traditional designs of indigenous Mexican peoples. One cape, featuring a pattern unique to the Purepecha community, was listed for sale on the label's site for €490, according to BBC. Fashion designer Carolina Herrera also appropriated designs from Mexican indigenous groups in her 2020 resort collection, as reported by itsartlaw. Such actions draw increasing global scrutiny to major fashion houses, revealing a pattern of profiting from indigenous cultural heritage without consent or compensation.
Fashion brands increasingly face public and governmental backlash for cultural appropriation, yet many continue to use indigenous designs without proper attribution or compensation.
Understanding Cultural Appropriation in Design
Cultural appropriation in design involves taking distinct elements from a culture not your own without credit or compensation. Prada faced criticism in June 2020 for presenting designs similar to Indian origins without acknowledgment, according to BBC. The criticism underscores a broader pattern of uncompensated cultural borrowing prevalent across the fashion industry.
Another clear instance involves KTZ's replica of a garment designed and worn by Aua, one of the last Shaman of the Canadian Inuit, cited as a standout example of cultural plagiarism by atmos. The CHANEL brand, in 2017, was also accused of cultural appropriation for manufacturing and marketing a boomerang engraved with art from Australia’s Aboriginal cultures, selling it for €2,000, according to alatis. This moves beyond textile patterns to the commodification of culturally significant artifacts.
These diverse examples illustrate how brands commodify profound cultural narratives and identities, often without understanding or acknowledging their deep significance. Such appropriation is not isolated; it is a global phenomenon, with incidents spanning continents and involving designs from various indigenous cultures.
